“My mistress' eyes are nothing like the sun
Coral is far more fair than her lips fair
If snow be white, why then, her breast is dun,
If hair be wires, black wires grow on her head.
I have seen roses damasked, red and white,
But no such roses see I in her cheeks...”
~ William Shakespeare
(Leed, 2008)
I think this quote is interesting because it contradicts the typical idea of beauty, particularly of that period. We know that the desired hair colour of that time would have been blonde or red, as many women, particularly members of the nobility, wished to emulate the Queen who was a natural redhead. The fact that Shakespeare describes his Mistress as being black haired, suggests that perhaps she did not follow the fashions of the day and this could be an indication of her lower class status.
Generally, women who had the wherewithal to emulate a fair-haired look achieved this by stripping their natural colour and dying it a more desirable shade, or by simply wearing wigs. Unfortunately, haircare methods were not researched and developed as they are today and the crude techniques ladies used to achieve the styles they wanted often led to hair being severely damaged and "Wiry" as Shakespeare describes above. One such example of an Elizabethan era hair bleaching technique is the use of Oil of Vitriol. As Sherrow (2006, 115) states in 'An Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History',
"Since Vitriol was a corrosive agent, the use of the product could cause hair loss. Other dyes also contained corrosive ingredients that damaged both the scalp and hair. Hair lightening liquids made with sulphuric acid often caused the hair to fall out."
Thankfully, today we have modern methods for processing hair which can achieve a change in colour without such disastrous results!
An image which I feel reflects Shakespeare's description of Elizabethan hair. I also think the shape of this afro style is reflective of the gravity-defying forms in which Elizabethan women presented their own hair.
Leed, D. (2008). Elizabethan Make-Up 101. Available: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/makeup.html. Last accessed 11th Oct 2013.
Sherrow, v (2006). Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History. Westport, CT: Greenwood Publishing Group. 115.